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Wavy discs |
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I have liked Wavy discs ever since I had one fitted to my WR400.
I can't say it made the bike stop any better, but it did have that
cosmetic look and certainly enhanced a supermoto.
When
it comes to sports bikes, Kawasaki started to fit the 'Petal' disc
to the ZX10R back in 2004 but it wasn't what I would have called
Wavy. Anyway, I've been looking for a set of wavy front discs for
my Blade for some time now on E-Bay and have always been outbid,
mainly because I refuse to pay the sort of money the likes of Galfer
and Braking etc. ask for their discs, it just doesn't seem value
for money to me, and seeing as E-bay stuff was all 2nd hand you'd
expect to pay a lot less. But oh no, people were still prepared
to pay well over 200 quid for 'used' ones.
Therefore I had admitted defeat and resigned myself to the fact
that I wouldn't buy any. Until, that is, I saw another ad on E-Bay
Motors, this time for a set of 2 front and one rear wavy discs for
99 quid??!! As always there is a catch, these discs come from China.
But the 99 quid for 3 seemed value for money nonetheless. I perused
their site and had a good old look at the specs and I couldn't see
where I could go wrong, except that perhaps one day I may not stop;
but the structure, materials, machining etc. that goes into these
looked good enough for 99 of anyone's pounds.
Whilst bearing in mind that my current Golf Clubs are Taylormades
and they come from China, well the factory next to the Taylormade
Factory, obviously being Jekylls, I thought why not, those clubs
are excellent and a fraction of the price. So, admittedly, with
a certain amount of trepidation I took the plunge and bought some.
They turned up in the next 5-7 working days (as advertised), and
were even delivered through TNT. I opened them and quite expected
the holes not to line up or something obvious that you would notice
with a copy of an original, but what are these copies of exactly?
They are not advertised as copies of Galfer or Braking items, they
are their own, but a less expensive option made by a company called
Villamotor.
I aligned them to the stock discs of mine that were off the bike
anyway and I couldn't fault them, all the holes lined up, the offset
of the carrier was perfect, the leading edges of the discs were
machine hardened, (I don't know the technical engineering name for
it), in black. Both the front discs weighed exactly the same as
each other and exactly 162 grammes (each) lighter than the originals,
and that's after 3 years of wear on the OEs.
Needless
to say they are now on and have been bedded in with new pads. At
first they seemed completely rubbish as all new disc and brake combinations
do, but after putting 30 miles on them they feel as good as the
originals. But I think they look better and they should equate to
a gyroscopic saving of 324 grammes, so less unsprung weight too.
Multiply that lot by 4 to allow for some mathematical mysteries
and I have lost approximately 1.2 kilos of unsprung rolling mass
and should have improved the steering reaction in the deal too,
i.e. quickened it.
I haven't tried the rear one yet, that is on my spare rear wheel,
but I guess this isn't quite as important as the front ones, they
will be taking all the stress and have quite a tough job ahead of
them.
If I find these things start to warp when used in anger I will
of course ensure there is a message on this site to ensure people
are aware and advise you not to do the same as me.
You have to realise that we do not do this site as a guide of what
one should do, we do it purely for fun and to tell anyone that is
interested of our exploits and what we think, and what we try etc.
I could be completely insane for doing what I have done with these
brake discs, but you will find out. If an update is required, hopefully
it will be written by me, if it's written by the Ed, then you know
what's happened to me and my wavy discs from China ...
Until the next time, insh'allah.
Tet
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A
bit of friction |
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4-pots,
6-pots? Radial? AP, Brembo, Billet, Alcon, PFM? Nissin, Tokico?
Braided hoses? Race pads? What makes a good brake setup?
Basically, it's all down to the coefficient of
friction between the pads and the disc, the rest is just the medium
used to squash the two together.
6-pot calipers were supposed to be the ultimate
solution for sport bikes, but then Yamaha produced stunning brakes
on the R1 with 4-pots and Honda came up with possibly the best road
bike brakes ever with the 4-pot Nissins on the SP1. Compare this
with the relatively weedy 6-pot Tokicos on the GSXR.
AP and PFM calipers and ultra-thin discs certainly
look good, and may save a tadge of unsprung weight, but there's
no real reason why they should be better than a standard setup.
The hardware determines the working brake surface area and the pressure
applied, but it's friction that stops the bike, and the level of
friction depends on the pad and disc materials and their interraction
at different temperatures.
Racers can produce the best setup for a limited
temperature range, but road bikes have to have effective braking
when cold and wet as well as red hot, and the pads have to last
for a reasonable mileage. So ultimate stopping power will always
be a bit compromised.
If you want to look the part, both AP and PFM do
conversion kits which give you the thin lighter weight discs, 6
pot calipers, and braided hoses, but they're not cheap ... between
£1000 and £1200, and that doesn't include a posh lever
assembly - and you've gotta have an AP lever to really cut it!
If you just need to replace your shagged standard
discs then EBC, Brembo and PFM offer straight swaps, prices starting
at a couple of hundred quid. These are marketed as high carbon steel,
which is supposed to give you higher friction, but not all are stainless,
so expect rusty discs after a wet night if your bike lives outside.
'Course,
radial brakes are all the rage at the moment. The theory is that
a radial two point mount, as opposed to the bendy fork arm extension,
means no flex so better feel. And they look trick, which helps.
They don't help poor brakes, though. The best non-radial road
bike brakes still outperform many of the new radial designs.
Best current production brakes? Gotta be the Fireblade and SP2.
Loads of bite and feel without being grabby. R1/R6 come next,
equally strong brakes but can grab initially if you give them
too much of a handful. Suzuki are as Suzuki always are, a bit
feeble - plenty of stopping power eventually but no bite.
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Third
party pads |

Winter salt has rusted the linings a bit
and the swept area of the SBS pads is clearly visible as
the darker area in the centre of the disc.
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I was prompted to write this drivel on account
of my recent experience with brakes, more particularly the linings
therein affixed.
Being the proud owner of a GSXR750WX, I reckon
the brakes are pretty good as standard, giving loads of initial
bite and good progressive stopping. Anyway, the day dawned when
they were looking a bit thin and a trip to the 'Ring was due that
weekend. I hot-footed to the local Suzuki dealer for a new set of
pads.
"Don't stock Suzuki's pads, we do SBS which
are just as good" quoth said dealer. Oooer. Now I've always
been minded that the OE pads are best, as presumably the major manufacturers
do yurgons of testing the ensure an ideal match between pad and
disc, allowing for half reasonable wear rates. However, time was
pressing so I purchased the SBS pads in a nice soft racer mixture.
However, getting home and comparing them with the originals and
it was obvious that the lining material area was significantly smaller
on the SBS. OK as far as it goes, but the pad will only wipe a limited
part of the disc, which will wear a slight groove. Then, if you
go back to larger pads the disc will develop a horrible uneven surface
as the new pads firstly rub only on the unworn part and then slowly
deform and start to blend the area between ther wear levels, producing
a slightly dished shape and uneven ridges. Then the disc is scrap.
This happened to the OWO1 and I never twigged why ....
Reduced lining height means only centre
of brake disc is used - compare with correct size lining
on right
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Anyway, time was short so I fitted the SBS pads
and went to the 'Ring. Braking was good, especially when they were
hot, so well pleased with the performance. Getting home, I checked
around for replacements before the discs became worn, and found
some Nissin pads which had lining material the right size. Bingo!
But they were crap, which is odd as Nissins were always considered
top pads. Not to worry, to the rescue came KRJ with some groovy
race spec Dunlopads, which he uses for racing and considers to be
jolly good. But blow me, they were the same as the SBS, with undersized
linings.
So, biting the bullet, I ordered a set of genuine
Suzuki pads .... at £80!! Fitted 'em and immedately I've got
my full-on brakes back, loads of initial bite and progressive stopping
from high speeds. I was lucky that the SBSs hadn't buggered the
discs.
So what I want to know is, why do some third party
manufacturers use the wrong size linings? Reason? My guess is that
they are used on a range of other pads and it's cheaper to just
use what you've got rather than make new ones. As in all things,
you get what you pay for.
So, if you've been using third-party pads and you
decide on a change, check that the new pads have the same size (or
smaller) lining otherwise you'll have to replace your discs in the
not too distant future.
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