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After 25000 miles the R1 has developed a bit of
high frequency vibration. Doesn't seem as if anything important
has failed but it's enough to make the hands and feet tingle and
go a bit numb. It seemed to happen quite suddenly, but it may just
be that it's reached a point where it's become a nuisance.
The
problem is definitely engine related and not really dependant on
engine revs, only disappearing when chugging along at 2000 rpm or
so.
First logical idea was to check carburettor balance as the tickover
was a bit uneven. Not at all sure imbalance of the carbs would cause
such high frequency vibration but no harm in balancing them anyway.
How to do it? The easiest bit of kit is the Carbtune by Morgans,
a brilliant design employing four stainless steel rods in plastic
tubes. Simple, robust and accurate. £52 delivered to your
door.
A quick bit of fiddling needed to start with. Cut 10cm off each
of the metre long connecting tubes, insert a damping restrictor
cut from a supplied bit of narrower tube and push the bits of tube
back together. So we wind up with four tubes again, but now with
restrictors in. These stop the rods from oscillating wildly about
when taking the pressure readings.
The gauge is marked in centimetres of mercury pressure. Your bike
specs should tell you what pressure your carbs should be at tickover.
The R1 is 22 cm/hg at 1100 rpm.
OK,
the slightly tricky bit - getting to the blanking screws in the
intake manifold, between carbs and head. So lift the fuel tank,
remove the airbox and shove a torch down behind the engine so you
can see what you are doing. Getting at the blanking screws is not
too bad on the R1, but make sure you don't lose the screws or copper
washers.
Then
insert a supplied adapters into the end of each rubber tube and
simply screw them hand tight into the manifold - rubber washers
make sure the seal is good without having to overtighten. You can
use the tube to guide the adaptor in as the chances are you won't
be able to get your hand in there and it saves the extra work of
having to pull the carbs off to gain access.
Start
the engine, set tickover to around 1100 rpm and watch the rods bouncing
gently in the Carbtune gauge. As you can see from the pic, my number
1 cylinder was way out, which was encouraging. It took all of 5
minutes to adjust the stop screws to get the rods all lined up.
Firstly adjust the screw between carbs 1 and 2 - this balances 1
to 2. Then adjust the screw between 3 and 4 and balance those two
carbs and finally the centre screw which balances 1 and 2 with 3
and 4.
If
you can't get to the stop screws easily simply stop the engine and
twist the throttle to bring the screw into a more easily reached
position. An eighth turn or so of the screw is usually enough, and
then retest. If the reading's worse just turn the screw the other
way.
Once
everything is within one cm/hg then you're finished. Let the engine
cool down and the adapters can easily be unscrewed by twisting the
connecting tubes. Replace the blanking screws and do a final test.
If you want to make life really easy next time you can get a kit
of adapters and heatproof tubing which fits permanently in place,
well worth the £10 it costs if your carbs are a bugger to
get at.
Did it help? Yup, tickover is super smooth now.
You can use the Carbtune on fuel injection units as well to ensure
that the butterflies are opening together.
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