It's not been a winter of discontent at my place; it's been a winter of being busy fettling with my beloved Blade. The finishing touch for this winter was a full Arrow race exhaust system to compliment the BMC Air filters and the Power Commander 3, I just have to load the correct fuel map now.

So here I am, 5 hours after starting the job, with a full exhaust system now on the Blade and looking very nice indeed. The whole system saves me 2.65 kgs in weight, but what I really like about it is the fact that you can get rid of the heatshields and the other bits and bobs that make the bike difficult to get to when cleaning it, so you save a bit more weight and enhance the looks no end. Add to this a 9.2 bhp increase, once correct fuel map is loaded, and it makes the idea seem pretty worthwhile.

The end can I have is a titanium one and the rest of the system is some sort of stainless stuff, with loads of springs holding it all together. The can has a removable baffle as most systems do these days, and there is a whacking great circlip holding the baffle in, but it still gives a nice note. Needless to say the baffle won't be in that much anyway.

The complete system is in many parts. Last night, before I started on the full fitment task, I connected the headers with the downpipes, these being numbered 1 to 4. There is a reason for this: number 1 pipe goes on to number 1 cylinder, which if you don't know is on the left hand side of the bike as you sit on it. This is not in the fitting instructions, but it doesn't take much to work out, especially if you put 1 and 2 downpipes on cylinders number 3 and 4, as it just won't fit to the remainder of the exhaust parts, so you cannot fit it incorrectly ….. but I managed it, although I was advised that number 1 cylinder is always where the camchain is.

Looking at my engine it appears the cam chain is on the right hand side of the engine, so I fitted pipes 1 and 2 and found out they were on cylinders 3 and 4. This expert advice could be a bit confusing if your cam chain is in the middle of the engine too, so follow my instruction, number 1 is on the left and work your way through. Also, top tip here, fit number 3 downpipe first, it's the most difficult to get to as the cooling fan sits rather close to it. Also, do not connect the 2 springs to the header and downpipe (of number 3), as that makes life difficult to get to the nuts when fitting it all back together.

The rest are fairly simple to get to with a 10mm spanner. Careful doing the nuts up though, do not over-tighten, and I couldn't get my torque wrench in there. Remember, it's ally that the head is make of. Do make sure the headers them selves sit flush against the exhaust gaskets in the cylinder head, they can be a little out if you are not careful, so check that they are sitting correctly. If not you will find that, when tightening the nuts back up, the studs will not be flush with the ends of the nuts. When the nuts feel quite tight but you cannot see/feel the stud in the middle of the nut, take the header off and check the seating of the header onto the cylinder head.

To fit a full system, you do have to strip off the lower side panels, seats, and rear tail unit, but I did not have to remove the number plate and indicator frame work, as mine is not standard, it's from Harris Performance Products. The Arrow instructions say you do, but they are assuming our bike is totally standard. I also saved my self some time as I was removing a Micron end can, so I have already done away with the exhaust valve paraphernalia, so it really was just a case of remove the old and on with the new. It's best to give yourself plenty of time to ensure it's all fitted OK and I must admit, I'm glad I did, it's not a job you want to rush.

At the end of it, I was left with a few bits and pieces left over: I had 2 bolts with nuts and washers, 2 radiator brackets, (oh yeah, you only have to remove the lower bolt of the radiator to give yourself a bit more room to get to the header nuts), 1 short spring, 1 exhaust clamp, 3 stickers (small), 3 empty boxes and loads of plastic bags and packaging. Oh, and one old Honda exhaust system that now clutters up my garage. The Micron end can will go on e-bay at some point. The radiator brackets supplied are for a 2004-05 and a 2006-7 model blade, (yes, same exhaust system for both models), but the brackets are not as good as the Honda one, so I used the original.

The 4 downpipes go into 2 x 2 into 1 sections that divert either side of the lower part of the sump, they don't touch anything, and then go into a 2 into 1 pipe that leads to the end can and link pipe, it's so simple it's untrue and I must admit, it does fit perfectly. Just remember to use all the high temperature grease stuff you get as it helps everything slot together perfectly and fills your garage with smoke when you start it up.

My compliments go to Arrow once again. I have fitted several of their systems to my bikes over the years and I really can't fault the quality and the way it all fits so nicely, you can see why top race teams use their products, they really are best in class.

I'm not really one for leaving my bike completely standard, so I decided to source a decent end can. Harris and Arrow were the favourites - Arrow because I can source them competitively priced and they are good quality - ask Mick Doohan or HRC! - and Harris because you can get all the parts for them separately in case of a crash etc. And both were about the same price.

However, during a phone call to a mate last week, he informed me there were Yoshimura RS-3 (non zyclone) Oval Titanium end cans for 265 quid. I like bargains, and I gave this chap a call at AC Components (01274 533221) and got the brief. Basically he'd got a job lot of them and someone to do with Suzuki had let him down, and he wanted to get rid of them pronto like. I did ask if they had any dents in them where they had taken a tumble from the back of the Yoshi lorry, but he assured me they didn't.

The next day my new endcan arrived, in it's Yoshi box, with loads of paperwork and info on the advantages of Titanium over anything else, a scotchpad for buffing, even a couple of Yoshi stickers too. Within half an hour it was on and it looks PUKKA !!!!! (especially with my polished ally Harris exhaust hanger). There's even a Yoshi logo embossed on the bracket, now that's quality !! Oh, not only does it look good, it actually sounds rather classy too. It has a nice deep burble to it and is no too antisocial, but I do expect it to gain a db or two when it's bedded its padding in.

The most noticeable improvement is that the bike now actually has some mid range !!! If you open it up in top when it's doing only 4 thousand revs it actually pulls, but don't get too excited it's not ground breaking performance but it is better than standard.

So all in all, I call that two hundred and sixty five quid well spent. Oh, nearly forgot, the best and I mean best thing about all of it, is the fact that because the bike is fuel injected, you don't have to bugger about with jets, mixtures and air filters. No flat spots, no glitches, nothing !! Smoother than silky the silk worm's pyjamas mate!

.... Some time later - ah, hmmm, well the fuelling is a bit lean at the top end and the bike struggles to pull flat out in top. Perhaps the fuelling does need some attention

If you're fitting a full system to an R1 you're going to have one extra problem - the EXUP system. The valve is controlled by a servo motor which sits above the crankcase and linked by two cables. The servo is controlled by the CDi unit.

Although the EXUP does improve low/mid range smoothness, by its nature it can offer some restriction to top end power - like the R1 doesn't have enough already!

Lose the EXUP valve and it's common sense to also remove the motor. The only problem is that the valve operation is tested by the Cdi unit when the ignition is turned on. If no working servo motor is present the Cdi will issue a fault-code, registered on the tachometer by setting the needle to 3000 rpm and then to 7000rpm every few seconds - very annoying.

The EXUP motor returns varying resistances to the Cdi depending upon it's position, zero ohms being completely shut and 7.5Kohms fully open. These variations may affect which ignition map is used, so removing the servo motor may also limit the bike to one basic ignition map.

You can buy various electrical bypass units to get round the tacho fault reporting or make your own (check out http://biketransplant.tripod.com/exup_replacement.htm - but it gets complicated). In theory, the varying resistances will allow the Cdi to deliver the correct ignition map for all revs. The R1 forum has some discussion on the use of a fixed resistor (http://www.yzf-r1forum.com/Tech4.html). A 7.5Kohm resistor is used to fool the Cdi into delivering the top end map, but you may still be left with a fault report as the valve is presented to the Cdi as jammed open.

Probably easiest just to junk the cables and leave the little motor whirring away happily on its own. Or even easier to leave the standard system on and spend your £1000 on ferry tickets and track days ....

But then again ....

Leo Vince is a name well known in scooter circles for their tuned pipes, bestowing that legendary neeeeeeee ... pop pop pop on 50cc scootys in cities all over the world. Not so well known though in the performance bike market.

Anyway, a trip to the Birmingham bike show and the offer of an oval titanium can with extra baffle for £225 was too good to resist. So the can was ordered and 4 months later (duh?) two boxes arrived. Why 4 months? Seems they sold so many cans at the show that the factory simply ran out.

The kit contains the can and connecting pipe, stainless steel strap plus rubber insert and a connector spring with puller. Everything looks to be good quality, with decent rivets, good banding and proper double skinning on the connector pipe where it fits onto the can. The pipe also has a good captive clip for fastening to the collector box.

On the end cap of the can is stamped the relevant Euro E number to show the exhaust meets noise requirements, which will be handy for MOTs.

So what's the spare baffle all about? Rather cunningly Leo Vince offer a race baffle. The show deal meant they threw the baffle in for free so I'm not sure of the price, around £50 I believe. The baffle is packed and ready to insert in place of the standard road unit.

Being a race baffle it's a straight-through design, whereas the road legal one is the usual stepped arrangement. Fitting is easy as the end cap has screws rather than rivets. Of course, once the race baffle is fitted one simply refits the end cap. It may not have escaped your attention that the cap still bears the E number, legitimising the can for the road. You would of course order a replacement cap with not for road use stamped on it. It would be delivered by a flying pig.

The oval can looks good on the R1 and should give heaps more ground clearance that the standard pipe, which tends to deck out rather too easily when I'm riding like a legendary racing hero. By legendary I mean more George Formby than Giacomo Agostini ...

I have eschewed race cans of late as the noise pisses me off and it makes brisk riding sound too obvious. So I like the Vince as I can use the road baffle and have the benefit of decent ground clearance without all the noise. But if you want the noise then hopefully the E stamped cap will keep you out of trouble with plod.

Pipe too loud? Getting banned from trackdays 'coz you're a noisy bastard? Fit Tony's new Noise-O-Limiter for a quiet life!

Before ..... After

Strangely, we've received quite a few orders for Tony's Great Invention. Unfortunately it's not in production. The stupid little hole may cut the noise down, but it also cuts the power down to about 3 bhp and completely screws up the fuelling. Still, gets you through the noise check at the Ring ... 25 minute lap time anyone?

Fitting a can to the 2K Blade, I asked Honda about the H-VIX thingamybob and if the end can is developed with this in mind. Of course the answer was "Yes", but you can still fit an aftermarket end can to the bike if you like, with no re-mapping, but it gains you nothing in terms of performance. Apparently the HRC guys that race Blades around the world remove the H-VIX valve (it's a bolt on unit) and replace it with a modified piece of exhaust or remove the exhaust all together and fit a full system.

I was resigned to leaving the standard can on my Blade, but when I had the chance to buy a second-hand Micron oval titanium can and polished Harris bracket, I couldn't resist. Now the bike looks and sounds much better. One thing did surprise me though - the standard can is a few grams lighter than the Micron!! I inspected the inside of the standard can and all it has in there is an offset baffle tube and a few small bits to keep the noise down, very impressive. I saved more weight by changing all the mild steel bolts used to hold the can and bracket on to titanium and alloy than I did by changing end can - first time that has ever happened!

Postscript: Since writing this Tet has put the standard can back on, the Nurburgring being an awful long way to go only to find you get banned for a noisy can. The bike now pulls 170mph rather than struggle to 165 as it did with the Micron, and fuelling generally seems cleaner. Let's face it, the Japanese are first class engineers and spend ages mapping the optimum fuelling rates to match the standard exhaust. If you change the can for a free flowing design you're gonna have to remap the fuelling chip - a Dynojet Power Commander can do this, at a price.