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Suzuki GSXR 1100G - the vintage years

There's no dog like an old dog ... or something like that. The venerable GSXR1100G was an excellent bike in it's day, decimating the production class in the late 80s. It was by far the lightest bike available in 1986 and was the first of the supersports bikes - the forerunner of today's sports bikes.

Much modified, this 1216cc torque monster can still run with the latest tackle. As long as it's not on a circuit, that is ....

Rear seat unit is from a 750RR - the original replaced after a rear entry with double pike at Brandish. Pesky 600s!

Huge all-encompassing screen keeps the wind and rain away. The 1216 bore necessitated an additional rad in the bellypan to help with the engine cooling.

Levers and master cylinders are from a Kwacker ZXR750 - nice kit which matches the slaves well and generally nicer to use than the standard fair.

Nissin callipers and 17" Dymag mag-alloy wheels help keep the bike on the pace. The fork internals have been modified to give variable damping and more of the feel of modern cartridge forks. Why no upside-downies added? ... to save weight of course!

Steering is pretty quick but the front lacks some of the feel of the current super-stiff forks and headstocks. Not to be outdone Wayne decided a mod was needed to improve front end stiffness, so to speak.

Power: 150 bhp at the back wheel Torque: 80 lb-ft. (at 4500 rpm!)

So, straight out of "How to make your GSXR1100BC handle" came the subtle enhancement - double up your fork brace / mudguard mount plate thingy and get some stiffness back into the tired old member. Dunno if it works but that mudguard's going nowhere! Note the nice little plastic stoneguard thingies protecting the fork sliders .. best quality shampoo bottles?

Still not entirely happy with aforesaid stiffyness, the next mod to improve front end feel (ooer) was to replace the standard 3/8" spindly spindle with a big fat 17mm item from the rear wheel ... mind you get an extra one and don't just nick the one from the back! Required a bit of reaming of the right fork leg but otherwise just needed different bearings and spacers.

Result was much admired by all, and apparently the front end feel is greatly enhanced.

5.5" wide 17" Dymag rear wheel and 180/55 tyre bring the bike into the 90s. EMC Racing rear shock is 10mm longer than standard to jack the back up a little and help sharpen the steering.

Handling really is very good bearing in mind the bike's age, and only a bit iffy on very fast bends. In a straight line nothing much will get past - 80 lb.ft. of torque sees to that.

  Sort out your shed

Get that old shed outa here ........ !

The 1100G was a brilliant bike when first introduced in 1985. I'm still riding my G most weekends and with a few mods it can challenge most bikes on the road as well as at the Ring.

Firstly a change of wheels to allow use of decent tyres. Initially I used 1100L wheels but upgraded to Dymags to save weight and get faster steering. They are an amazing improvement and I recommend fitting lightweight wheels before you do any engine tuning. They really help handling, cornering, acceleration and braking.

The original exhaust is very restrictive and rather heavy, and this has been replaced several times with different pipes - I currently use a Yoshimura. The carbs are fitted with the usual Dynojet kit and K&N air filters, the filters mounted directly on the carbs and so doing away with the airbox. It took some trial and error to get the fuelling right, and setting up the carbs can take a while. I have often resorted to shims a few thou thick under the needles to get the result I want.

The original 36mm carbs are excellent for torque. Many owners fit 40mm carbs or even flatslides, but I feel the 36s restrict the bhp only marginally and give phenomenal torque in the midrange - great for road use.You need to run the engine as lean as you can get away with without detonation to get a lovely crisp throttle response.

I tried an ignition advance unit which allows advancing of the ignition timing by around 5 degrees. However, I am not convinced these really help much and I junked it some years ago.

Next up in my never-ending quest for performance came cylinderhead work - gasflowing and skimming - and new barrels. Gasflowing has removed the roughness from the inlet and exhaust tracts. The engine has received the 1216cc bore mod with rods, barrels and pistons from an 1100M. With these changes some alteration is needed to the cam timing and I fitted slotted cam sprockets to give me around 10 degs. of adjustment. I initially ran the cams fairly well advanced to get top-end power, but recently I've retarded the settings to give more torque as the top-end is around 145 bhp which is as much as the frame can really handle!

The engine work has necessitated the fitting of an additional oil cooler in the belly pan of the fairing to keep some control on the oil temperature and pressure. The addition of an oil pressure gauge is a mixed blessing - with hard riding the needle can almost drop off the scale!!

Hand in hand with performance tuning must come some attention to the handling. Without complete replacement there is a limit what can be done to the forks. However, I have fitted Race Tech valve units from the US to give some control over compression damping, rebound being set first by the oil viscosity (yeah I know, sad old git hasn't even got rebound adjustment!). The only drawback is that the units sit at the bottom of the fork legs, so adjustment necessitates removing the springs so I can tweak out the units with my patent tweaking rod.

The rear shock is an EMC Racing unit, 10mm longer than standard to jack the back up a little and put more weight on the front whilst sharpening up the steering - I'm waiting for the shock to expire as I really want to try a unit 15mm longer than standard, but it keeps on surviving the abuse it gets.

Nissin calipers improve the braking and junking the awful old steering damper has helped sharpen the steering - these bikes really don't need a damper. Although it will never give me as much feedback as a modern sports bike, the GSXR is surprisingly effective and I've got the benefit of torque R1s can only dream of!

First, fish out the spacer, springs and valve unit
Spring controls the release for fast damping.
The two small holes control slow damping.
Adjusting fast damping spring pre-load.

Alright, that's enough of the Hayne's Manual bullshit ..

  Time to say goodbye?

Faithfull old bike that the Gixer has been, is it time to wave bye bye to it now? Seems the years are slowly taking their toll with breakdowns appearing on an increasingly regular basis. First off, the clutch went in Belgium, necessitating a bit of exploration to find some bleeding equipment to keep the thing going until we got home. Then in France last year an oil pipe started leaking, worn through over the years from rubbing on the frame rail. Another detour to find a Suzuki dealer effect a repair with some best quality plumbing tubing. Not too disastrous but it took up 5 hours or so and meant a rapid scamp to reach our destination in time.

Latest problemo is down to the electrics, a dead short somewhere in the system which blows the ignition fuse. Luckily this one happened in Blighty, so a rapid recovery was easy, although finding the problem wiring won't be ...

The bike expired on a quick Sunday run days before a trip to the Nurburgring. If we hadn't gone on that run chances are it would have happened in the delightful Ardennes somewhere. Not so delightful when you've got 400 miles to cover in the day.