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OK, first off the Isle of Man is 'Up North'. This means it's mainly
cold, windy and wet, has things called Boarding Houses or B&Bs
and the food includes such delights as solidified blood products
(colloquially known as black pudding), animals' stomachs drizzled
with milk and everything is subject to a light coating of curry
sauce.
The fun begins when you try and get to the place. Being an island,
access is either by means of various steam-powered aircraft or by
cattle barge. Being a biker you will want to go by sea so that you
can take your prized toy with you, so the cattle barge it is for
you. Going under such mysterious names as the King Orry and Ben
My Chree, these boats must have seen sterling service evacuating
tired, muddy men from Dunkirk in 1827. Loading has improved though
- a few years ago you had to stick your bike in a net to be slung
aboard by crane, but now we have a biggish plank of wood that provides
you with a slightly scary ramp into the bowels of the vessel. Modernity
has infested the Isle of Man Steam Packet Company a bit as they
now have a Seacat. So if you want to miss the traditional festivity
of the cattle barge make sure you book that.
Upon arrival you will be gassed by ancient old nails being started
and revved up 20 minutes before the boat door actually opens. Learn
the German for 'Turn that fucking heap off now, mate' ... it could
come in useful at this juncture.
Exiting
the boat you will be greeted by rain. But fear not, it always rains
at 4.30 am in the Isle of Man. Splash your way along the prom to
your 'hotel'. This will be an unheated bed and breakfast establishment
located in a long terrace of similar buildings, erected sometime
in 1900 and painted white. It will have 'The Savoy' or some such
ridiculous name over the door.
There will be nowhere to park your bike ... three million other
people have arrived before you and used up every square inch of
any level surface to park a motley collection of, mostly, old nails.
If you have been unwise enough to book a 3 person room you will
now find that it is exactly the same size as a single room (about
10'0 x 7'0) but has 3 beds in it, the third being under the sink
and approached over the first two. The period Victorian wardrobe
will have no hangers, but this doesn't matter as there won't be
room to open the doors anyway. The nearest toilet is down the stairs
and at the end of the corridor, so the sink comes in useful during
the night.
One of the amusements in these boarding houses is the array of
notices pinned to various fixtures. "Do not operate the flush
after 9.00 pm", "Please do not replace your light with
a stonger bulb", "Guests are requested not to operate
the television", "Please do not ask for variations in
the breakfast menu, a refusal often offends". Don't get too
excited about the TV - this is not some satellite linked system
in your room for enjoying live MotoGP, more a 1963 black and white
job in the Guests' Lounge - and only BBC1 works.
So, meet up with your mates in the bar, which is shut, and head
off into Douglas for a meal. Walk around town, walk around a bit
more, get confused, and head back towards the hotel to that greasy
spoon you saw 3 doors away advertising 'Chips with curry sauce'.
At this point you realise that gastronomy is not big in the IOM.
Time to book a table at the French restaurant at the far end of
the prom. Make sure you book, and to be safe give them a few days'
notice. As it's pretty much the only decent place in town they do
get busy.
After
your slap-up meal of chips you can enjoy the evening's entertainment.
This can either be Bernard Manning telling a load of crap jokes
or drunk nutter Irishmen doing burnouts and wheelies along the prom.
The police have clamped down a bit on all this in recent years so
the bike antics are rather muted now, although they haven't done
much to affect Bernard Manning's jokes.
If you're really adventurous you can head off to the Castle Mona
for a beer. If you're really, really adventurous you can book a
decent room there, but be prepared for a rather large bill. Then
on to the Miss Wet T-shirt Competition: a huge hall full of sweaty
1960's bikers with plastic mugs full of fizzy beer all shouting
"Get them off". Perhaps not, then.
To be fair, there are a lot of decent pubs on the Island and some
seriously strong beer, so a good evening will see you completely
incapable of any meaningful riding the next day. And beware of wet
mornings; these are common on the Island, but popping in for 'a
couple' to while away the time can result in numb legs and another
day not riding.
Everyone's gotta do it at least once in their life ...
This is what it's all about - you don't get closer to the racing
anywhere else
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