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  Yamaha R1 - 2000 model

Revised version is supposed to steer better that the '99 model, although if there is any difference it's hard to feel. The engine is superb, loads of grunt and a liquid top end, and the suspension gives plenty of travel with good control for mega-comfy road use.

Riding position is good for 300 miles with no discomfort and the massive torque from the motor means you can spend all day in 6th gear if you want to. On the move the Yam feels very light and the changes to the front end means it's a bit easier to get the bike through chicane flip-flops, although still not in Gixer or Blade territory.

The low screen/fairing does give a fair bit of wind blast at 150+ but a flip-up screen will sort that if you don't mind losing the low, mean look, and is essential for European blasts where speeds tend to be a fair bit higher.

Suspension is OK for the road, quite compliant and comfy but the front end feels a bit odd when you hustle the bike .... seems like the front wants to wash out a little bit which may be down to poor damping. Ground clearance is also limited, so scraped hero blobs and exhaust can are common. Easy to deal with; remove the blobs and fit a smaller sports can.

Steering benefits a little from dropping the yokes / raising the forks by around 10 mm, plus increasing the rear shock's preload by one or two notches off max to hold the back end up, helps turn-in and gives the front a bit more bite. Even better would be a decent rear shock which would probably also help calm the bike under hard acceleration as it tends to flap about a fair bit. And one day perhaps a revalve of the forks to sort the turning out and give the bike better feel mid bend.

For trips abroad the rear seat has handy little nylon tabs which fold out for strapping luggage - and you can easily take the seat off with bag still attached to access the storage compartment underneath. It's these little touches than make life so much more pleasant, don't you think?

Engine is very civilised and produces oodles of go everywhere. Nice old-fashioned carbs ensure there are no on-off throttle injection glitches and fuelling is clean throughout.

Gearshift is smooth and selection is positive. Brakes are excellent with good feel and loads of stopping power.

Don't like the welded subframe, at least a bolt-on one can simply be replaced. Guess it's all in the name of weight saving, and the R1 is a very skeletal bike, with absolutely everything pared down to the minimum.

Clocks are good - a big analogue revcounter and digital speedo make everything easy to see even for short-sighted old gits, and the little odometer is jolly clever. It can be an odo, trip1 or trip2, a clock or, really clever this, a fuel reserve tripmeter which starts counting up from zero when the fuel tank goes onto reserve.

When you fill up the counter automatically resets and the display returns to the odo/clock - whatever you were showing before. Very handy idea that, all bikes should have one.

So the R1 off is a pretty good sports bike. The steering is still not quite there and can get a little bit ponderous in chicanes but it's a whole heap better than a Thunderarse. The motor is storming, the suspension supple and the seat comfy. Everything you need for the road.


Ground clearance is a bit crap ...

For track use you're gonna have to spend a bit of money on fork internals and a decent rear shock. As standard the bike is just too soft and winding up the dampers will only solve part of the problem as the valving is a bit basic and spring rates need upping as well. Getting Harris / Ron Williams or any other decent suspension firm to change the fork springs and re-valve will give you a decent front end for the track, and better on the road too. The easiest route for the back end is an Ohlins / Penske / whatever shock, sprung for your weight and valved to suit. Ground clearance is a problem, so rearsets are an essential bit of kit.

Probably the best thing is to get two R1s, a soft squidgy one for the road and a demon tuned, race suspended nutter bastard for the track.

  Stick-on goodies

One thing, or even three, worth considering are crash mushrooms / bumpers or whatever you want to call them. They give some protection to the fairing and pokey-out bits if you drop the bike, and can mean the difference between riding home or calling the recovery service. These are Harris ones. The left one's easy as it fixes straight on to the engine mount. The right one is a bit trickier as the fairing obscures the mount and things get even more awkward 'coz the mounting bolt is secured with a pinch bolt, so unless you want to drill a bloody great big hole in the fairing to clear the bumper and leave some wiggle room, something more inventive is required. Some mushrooms fit onto the fairing mount (yeeuk) but Harris employ a nice shiny ally plate which fixes to the engine mount and provides a fastening for the bumper. Only problem is, you have a drill a 50mm hole in the fairing, but the supplied template seems to work well so the hole winds up in the right place. To remove the fairing panel the bumper is easily unscrewed.

Probably the most essential bolt-on goody for the R1 is this little chap, again supplied by Harris, The Clutch Protector Kit. It provides protection to the clutch arm and cover should you dump the bike - the design of the gearbox means the casing around the arm is exposed and likely to break if it hits the ground with any force, meaning loss of lots of expensive oil and a long walk home. The bumper projects out far enough to keep the casing clear of the deck. The ally backplate fits behind the swingarm spindle nut and the plastic bumper simply screws into it. You can even still use your Abba stand, if you've got one. If you haven't then go and buy one ....

The 2000 Yam still steers a little bit ponderously, and raising the forks only helps marginally. The real answer is to fit yokes with a reduced offset, allowing the front to turn more naturally and making it easier to keep the bike on line through corners. The standard offset is around 35mm, whereas the 2002 R1 is running 25mm, albeit with increased trail to aid stability. These ones are a bit tarty, though .....

 

 

I feel so compelled to write after reading a small line on your site with someone quoting that the TLR is better than the R1? This is simple favouritism. I own a bike shop and God forbid I own both these bikes. They both have some mods but there is no way in the world that the TLR is close to the R1. I do enjoy rides on the TLR but I have come to the conclusion that I only ride the TLR to remind me how brilliant the R1 is.

Neither are my prefered bike as I also have the 1098, 998 and 916. I also ride the MV Agusta 100. The R1 can hold its own with any of these bikes and also for dollar value it is years ahead of anything I can put up against it in its Jap class. Its also a '99 model. I feel the last of the carb models have so much more balls than the efi bikes. Anyway..enjoy what you have... Flavio, Melbourne Australia.

 

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